User:ElvaMacFarland

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This challenge has been a long time coming for me. Nearly a 12 months ago I left my windows down throughout a fairly spectacular thunderstorm (by chance pressed the unlock button on my key in my pocket while I used to be walking away from the automotive and each home windows and the sunroof opened), and as a consequence of some relatively drastic measures on my half to dry out the car the only lasting harm was that I now had a seatbelt and airbag warning light on my dashboard. I used to be fairly rapidly ready to find out that these lights had been being brought on by a faulty passenger occupancy sensor. Unfortunately, BMW does not promote just the sensor, but moderately your complete bottom seat cushion for a cool $1200. Properly I didn't want to do that. So I managed to make it by way of many a month with these annoying warning lights until at some point I happened upon a listing on a salvage automobile elements site that was selling a standalone seat sensor! I snatched up the half and then spent an entire day switching them out. In researching how to get into the seats I was unable to find much of anything helpful on this forum so I figured I ought to write up this DIY to help others out. 1. Take away the seat (duh). You'll use the T50 bit to take away all four screws holding the seat down. Once unfastened, go to the trunk and disconnect the battery. Again in the cabin, push the chair back so you'll be able to see underneath and disconnect the yellow wiring harness. There is a black tab on the facet which you could fit a small screwdriver in. Pull that tab out so far as it'll go, then pull out the wiring harness. There is a separate wire connector on top too: squeeze the sides to launch it and disconnect that too. Now pull the seat out of the car. This is less complicated in the event you additionally take the headrest off. 2. Now you are going to need to remove the plastic cowl on the righthand side of the seat that has the seat controls on it. This piece is held on with 5 plastic tabs: Three are seen on the underside of the piece and a couple of are hidden inside near the highest. I was able to get all however the righthand inside tab using simply my palms. To get that final tab I had to bend a hook form into a chunk of thick wire and fish that through to the tab and pull the tab while pulling up on the whole piece. That was difficult. As soon as off, you may see methods to controls are wired up, simply unplug them so you may take away the trim totally. 3. As soon as the outer plastic trim is off, you'll be confronted with a second plastic piece. To take away this there's just one bolt (T30) and then you simply must wiggle it round until it pops off. There are some wires attached to this piece with a plastic rivet which does not seem like it is meant to come back off so I left this piece nonetheless partially hooked up to the seat. 4. Subsequent, there's another plastic trim piece on the other aspect of the seat on the back nook. Use the T20 bit to remove the screw, and pull the piece off. 5. There's now just one last piece of trim left, and it is a pain. It is the lower plastic piece on the front of the chair. You'll see that there are three attachment factors. The outer two are simple: simply depress the outward going through tab with a small screwdriver and pull outward on the piece. They're going to pop out. The center attachment level is tougher as a result of the tab you'd need to press in is definitely facing inward in direction of the seat so that you cannot get to it. You may, nonetheless, use a small screwdriver and put the head inside the attachment level, angling it in order that it catches on the tab on the inside, and pull the piece downward. It'll come off eventually. 4. Now it is time to start eradicating the leather! The purpose of eradicating all this plastic trim was to be ready to easily and totally take away the complete seat cushion. Observe how all across the seat the leather-based is stitched to this plastic lip. Now that we've eliminated all the trim, you'll be able to pull this plastic lip off of its hold on the seat frame. There's one long piece for the whole entrance, one medium piece in the again, and two brief pieces, one on either back aspect of the chair. Additionally you'll want to undo the little bits on the again corners the place the leather-based is held by a plastic button and is stretched over a metallic nub. Now we can pull the again flap by the gap in between the higher and lower halves of the chair and then, from the again ahead, pull the cushion up. There's just one last point of attachment: just earlier than the leg extension there is a plastic rib that's hooked up to the seat frame. This rib is just held in by some steel tabs, you can begin on one end and pull up and it's going to come out. 5. Now for the real fun half: we need to remove the leather-based from the foam cushion in order that we will get on the occupancy sensor. On the underside of the cushion, beginning from the back, you'll see many metal hogties. I used a pair of pliers to take away them. Simply pinch the ring and turn it until the ends are facing you, then pull them apart and remove the ring. There are 4 on the skin of the cushion to take away. Then on the inside you will need to take away a bunch extra. I did 11 rings in complete, I feel. When you get get deep sufficient between the foam and the leather-based, you'll be able to absolutely remove the old sensor. It is glued in on the front and on both facet bolsters. 6. Put in your new sensor! I glued mine back in with some Gorilla Glue Gel. Watch out because not a lot seems to persist with that foam. I in all probability went by way of 4-5 completely different glues before I discovered the Gorilla Glue. 7. It is all downhill from right here. Now it is advisable to reattach the leather-based to the foam. To do this, I used zip ties. Just put them in the exact spots the place you eliminated the metal rings. For a few of the more difficult components to get a zip tie in place, I was capable of push my steel wire via the hole and use it as a guide for the zip tie. 8. Reattach that sucker back to the seat frame. Nothing too tough here, simply take it sluggish and go within the reverse from before. It'll all match. Don't forget to plug in your new seat sensor to the chair. 9. Reinstall the chair. General this project took me about 6-8 hours. Removing the plastic trim is tough, eradicating the hog rings is a ache, and getting the leather-based reattached to the foam takes time. That stated, it's all completely doable with minimal tools. I've written this up as finest I can, however I'm certain I ignored a number of steps.

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